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Texas Hold'em Poker - Holdem Poker Rules, Strategy and How to Play Tips

The basic Texas Holdem game rules,strategy and how to play Hold'em tips shown here are those that are generally agreed to and recommended by the experts on limit Holdem poker. The rules for Texas Holdem vary from most other Hold'em type games in that the players are dealt only two cards, and can play either both, one, or no cards from their two downcards to make the highest ranking final hand.
An understanding of these playing strategy basics is needed for all levels of competitive play, however. . . solid intermediate, and expert poker usually requires extensive research of the more advanced game tactics and plenty of hours of actual casino and online playing experience. 

How to Play Hold'em

General Hold'em Strategy: Hold'em is basically HIGH card game. The players holding two good high cards have the best chance at the best hand or a draw to the best hand after the flop. Only play strong hands, that will stand a raise or multiple raises, from early betting positions. Play medium strength and other playable hands from the later positions if you have a good chance of seeing the flop at a reasonable price. Play strong high hands MOST of the time, and play them very aggressively. Take all the raises you can get. If you don't thin out the competition, you reduce your chances of winning. Plus, your aggressive play before the flop can add credibility to any strong play you might want to use on the next round if a garbage flop falls and you want to try a steal. Be ready to fold your high pair if you get a lot of action with a threatening flop.

Definitions: HIGH CARDS - A thru 10 (Aces, Faces and Tens) MEDIUM CARDS - 9 thru 7 LOW CARDS - 6 thru 2 SUITED PLAYER HAND (S) - Both cards of the same suit. SET - Three of a kind with two of the three in your hand. (One in your hand and two on the board is "trips".) NUT HAND - An unbeatable hand. Sometimes called a "lock". FLOP, TURN. RIVER - The community cards in the order of distribution. See top illustration. FAST PLAY - Bet, raise and re-raise to get as many other players out as possible. SLOW PLAY - Just check or call along to keep other players in the game to increase the pot odds. CHECK-FOLD - Check when you can and fold if you are bet into. Gladly accept all free cards offered.

Starting Holdem Hands: The starting hands shown here are in general power order groups with names that are easy to remember. More precise power ratings of each of the individual hands is available on the "Best of the Net" page, under "Texas Hold'em".

The Strongest Starting Hands: PAIR of HIGH CARDS - AA, KK, QQ, JJ, 1010 ACE and HIGH CARD SUITED - AK(S), AQ(S), AJ(S), A10(S) FACES SUITED - KQ(S), KJ(S), QJ(S) ACE KING - AK

Medium Strength Starting Hands: FACE TEN SUITED - K10(S), Q10(S), J10(S) MEDIUM PAIRS - 99, 88, 77 TWO HIGH CARDS - AQ, AJ, A10 (ace king ranks higher, above), KQ down to J10 ACE and MEDIUM SUITED - A9(S), A8(S), A7(S) MEDIUM SUITED CONNECTORS (No Gap/One Gap) - J9(S), 109(S), 108(S), 98(S), 97(S) down to 75(S)

Other Conditional Starting Hands: LOW PAIRS - 66, 55, 44, 33, 22 ACE and LOW SUITED - A6(S), A5(S), A4(S), A3(S), A2(S) LOW SUITED CONNECTORS (No Gap/One Gap) - 65(S), 64(S), 54(S,) 53(S) (lowest)

Strategy Tips: Fast play high pairs and very strong hands before the flop. This puts more money in the early pot and encourages weak and garbage hands to fold that could get a lucky flop and beat you. Don't draw to the low end or both ends of a straight. If a 9 8 7 flops, you want to be playing the J 10 and not the 6 5 or the 10 6. (The low part is commonly called the "ignorant" end of the straight.) Unconnected Medium and Low Cards are Usually Unplayable. This includes suited cards that can't flop a straight. Both ends of a straight such as 9 5 fall into this very weak catagory. Play starting low pairs cautiously. 66 down to 22. Usually not from an early seat and from the late positions, only when the price is right. If you don't flop a set or quads you should usually fold. Play aggressively when you have a two way draw after the flop. If you can make a straight AND a flush or trips etc., usually bet/raise your hand. Bet an Ace or two high overcards after a garbage flop (a three suit "rainbow" with unconnected medium and low cards). Usually fold if someone raises. Watch out for uniform flops, like 8 7 6, they can easily turn into straights that can overtake your high pair or other good hand. Check the raisers chips. Players that are close to all-in often rush the betting just to get all their chips in a sink-or-swim last hand. Beware of Suited Flops that can make a completed flush. In this case, you should usually hold the nut in that suit, or have trips or two pair that can fill up.. Get caught bluffing once in a while. It is a way to vary your play and not be too predictable. You win pots that you don't deserve when your bluff works. You lose a few chips when it doesn't work but it will get you calls from weaker hands down the line when you have a strong hand and need the action. Study your opponents, especially when you are not playing hands and can pay careful attention. Do they find more hands to play than they fold? Do they bluff? Can they be bluffed? Do they have any "tells" (give away mannerisms) that disclose information about their hands etc.

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How to Host a Hold'em Poker Tournament at Home

Until recently, my home poker game was probably like most people's. We would meet about once a month and play pretty low limit dealer's choice poker. We'd play Draw, 7-stud, Anaconda, or whatever other crazy game the dealer could come up with. It was fun, but we wanted to try something different. With the increased popularity of Texas Hold'em from the World Series of Poker, the World Poker Tour and other televised tournament events, we thought it would fun to try No-Limit Hold'em. So we started playing a small Hold'em tournament about once week, and I think it's made for a much more enjoyable game. There's something about being able to raise all in for a couple thousand dollars that gets your blood pumping a little faster than in our old three dollar max raise game.

Running a single table tournament is surprisingly easy. You'll need the following items to make your game run smoothly, most of which you should already have if you play with any sort of regularity.

• Two decks of playing cards, or more. One of the problems with the tournament setting, is you can't just cash in your chips and leave when you get tired of playing. You're in it until you get knocked our or until you win. Because of this, games can potentially get to be quite long. We found that by using a second deck, and shuffling it during the round so that it was ready to go right away, significantly sped up the time it took to get a full game in.
• Large table. You can have up to ten people in a Hold'em game, so make sure you have a space big enough to accommodate everyone.
• Clay poker chips. This isn't a necessity, but it is a lot nicer to play with real chips than with the cheap plastic ones you buy at the supermarket. I got a set of 500 chips for about $100 off of EBay about a year ago, and I think the prices have come down since then. Also check out Poker 'n Stuff. They have a huge assortment of chips at decent prices. If no one wants so spring for the full set, charge an extra "equipment fee" for each game until you recover the cost of the chips.
• Dealer button. Most chips sets come with a dealer button, but you can use anything. You need to something to keep track of whose turn it is to deal, and who should be posting blinds.
• Stopwatch or watch with an alarm. You are going to want to increase the blinds at a preset interval. A watch with an alarm is probably your best option. That way you won't forget to raise the blinds at the appropriate time because no one is watching the clock. If you decide to raise the blinds after a specific number of hands, then you will need something to track the number of hands instead of a timer.
• Five to Ten people. We generally try to get as many people as we can for any given night. The more people you have, the more exciting it can be, and the bigger the prize pool, but also the longer the game will be.

Before you start playing, you will need to choose your seats and allocate chips to everyone. To choose your seats, deal everyone a card. The high card will be the first dealer. The next highest card will be seated to his right, and so on until you get to the player with the lowest card, who will be immediately to the dealer's left. We generally allocate $500 worth of chips to everyone, although you can adjust this to any amount you wish. One of the other nice things about a tournament is that it doesn't matter what your buy in is, it could be $1 to $1000; you can still give everyone $500 worth of chips to play with.

You are now ready to begin. The player to the left of the dealer will post a small blind, and the player two spots to the left will post a large blind, and whoever is in charge of the watch, should start the timer. I recommend the following blind schedule changing every 20 minutes, but you can change it at whatever interval you are comfortable with. If the game runs too long, you can remove some of the levels, or shorten the time between levels. If you feel like the blinds increase too quickly, you can add some extra levels, or increase the amount of time between blinds. If you are giving everyone $500 in chips to start, then you should probably skip the first level or two and start at 2/5 or 5/10. If you have a large group, or you don't have enough chips for everyone, then start at $300 and the blinds at 1/2.

Once the blinds reach the 100/200 level, there is usually only one or two people who can afford to play a hand all the way to the showdown without having to go all in, so if there are a bunch of people left at that point, they will start to be eliminated quickly. You probably won't need the 200/400 or 300/600 level unless you have a full game with ten people. Continue playing until all but one person has been eliminated. Depending on how many people you have, and how quickly it goes, you may be able to play more than one tournament in a night.

Assuming you have a $20 buy in, we would use the following pay out schedule. You can adjust it however you like. You could also do winner take all, but I think the more people that get paid the better. If only one person gets paid, than the ratio of happy to unhappy people isn't very conducive to playing this format very often.

Multi-Table Tournaments

Multi-table tournaments will work in much the same way as the single table tournament described above. You'll obviously need extra chips, and cards for the other tables, but the general setup should be the same. The first thing you will need to do is divide into even groups. I recommend drawing cards, and making each suit or color be its own table. You can also seat players in order of the cards they drew. The only other things you will need to worry about is balancing the tables, and payout structures. We generally rebalance the tables when any one table has two fewer members than another. Players at the table with more players each draw a random card with the high card moving to the short handed table. That player should take the seat of the last person eliminated from the smaller table. When you have eliminated enough players to remove a table completely, you should redraw for seating. Make sure that you define when this will happen before hand, to avoid any confusion. For example if you have 16 people, you would start with two tables of eight, and you could consolidate down to one table when eight players remain.

That's all you should need to host a No-Limit Texas Hold'em tournament. If you have any questions or comments, please post them in the forum, and I will be happy to respond.

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Poker Strategy - Poker Tips and Tactics

It’s been said that poker is easy to learn but hard to master. Mastering any poker game is a fun and challenging goal. In the poker strategy section, you will find many resources to help you become a winning poker player. This page features general poker advice and strategy as well as links to poker strategy and tips for other poker games.

The basics of solid poker strategy involve many concepts that you must combine to become a consistently winning player. The following concepts are crucial to learning poker strategy:

• Tight play
• Aggressive play
• Random play
• Taking advantage of opponents’ mistakes

Keep these concepts in mind as you develop as a poker player. These strategic concepts are like the colors on an artist’s palette: the basic colors are the same, but the artist’s use of them is unique and stylistic.

Some Poker Strategy Considerations

Decisions for the New Poker Player

Decide whether you want to play poker to win or to play for fun. To play at a consistently winning level requires both time and effort. In other words, it takes work. There is nothing wrong with playing poker for fun, but there is no reason to plan to lose, even when you are playing for fun. However, deciding which type of poker player you want to be before you start will make your decisions and sessions easier.

Make Good Decisions – the Results Will Follow

Even the best poker players in the world have losing sessions. Don't make the mistake of expecting to win every time you play. Your goal should be to play to the best of your ability in every session. If you do, the cards and winnings will take care of themselves as you improve.
Many players make the mistake of judging their poker playing ability based on the results of each session. Your goal should be to make the best possible play every time. The closer you come to this, the better your results will be.

The Mathematics of Poker

Poker is a mathematical game, and it’s a game of incomplete information. That may sound complicated, but it really isn't. On a very basic level, winning poker starts with the selection of which starting hands to play. If you enter the pot with the best hand more often than your opponents do, you will win more times than your opponents.

Beyond Starting Hands

Starting hand selection is fundamentally important, but it’s only one piece of the poker strategy puzzle. Once you have mastered solid starting hand guidelines and understand how they change by your position at the table, the next area you should work on is your play for the rest of the hand. The area that separates professional players from amateurs is that professional players tend to play much better than their opponents during the remainder of the hand, after the starting hand decisions are made.
This is especially true concerning the decisions made at the very end of every hand. These skills involve calculating pot odds, recognizing betting patterns, bluffing, and using position. The years of practice necessary to master the middle and end game play are well worth the effort, because even small improvements in a player’s abilities can have a tremendous effect on that player’s lifetime winnings.

Avoiding Tilt

Another meta-skill that should be part of a winning player’s poker strategy is avoiding tilt. Your opponents will use your emotions against you, but only if you let them. Emotional play results in poor decisions and lost money. Tilting and steaming can happen to anyone, and sometimes the only cure is a break from the game. That’s okay; the game will still be there ten minutes from now. In fact, it will still be there tomorrow.

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Poker Terms and Glossary - Online Poker Dictionary T-Z

Table Stakes - A rule in a poker game meaning that a player may not go into his pocket for money during a hand. He may only invest the amount of money in front of him into the current pot. If he runs out of chips during the hand, a side pot is created in which he has no interest. All casino poker is played table stakes. The definition sometimes also includes the rule that a player may not remove chips from the table during a game. While this rule might not be referred to as "table stakes," it is enforced almost universally in public poker games.
Tell - A clue or hint that a player unknowingly gives about the strength of his hand, his next action, etc. May originally be from "telegraph" or the obvious use that he "tells" you what he's going to do before he does it.
Tilt - To play wildly or recklessly. A player is said to be "on tilt" if he is not playing his best, playing too many hands, trying wild bluffs, raising with bad hands, etc.
Time - (1) A request by a player to suspend play while he decides what he's going to do. Simply, "Time, please!" If a player doesn't request time and there is a substantial amount of action behind him, the dealer may rule that the player has folded. (2) An amount of money collected either on the button or every half hour by the cardroom. This is another way for the house to make its money (see "rake").
Toke - A small amount of money (typically $.50 or $1.00) given to the dealer by the winner of a pot. Quite often, tokes represent the great majority of a dealer's income.
Top Pair - A pair with the highest card on the flop. If you have A -Q, and the flop comes Q-T-6 , you have flopped top pair. See "second pair."
Top Set - The highest possible trips. Example: you have T -T, and the flop comes T-8-9 . You have flopped top set.
Top Two - Two pair, with your two hole cards pairing the two highest cards on the board.
Top and Bottom - Two pair, with your two hole cards pairing the highest and lowest cards on the board.
Trips - Three of a kind.
Turn - The fourth community card. Put out face up, by itself. Also known as "fourth street."
Under the Gun - The position of the player who acts first on a betting round. For instance, if you are one to the left of the big blind, you are under the gun before the flop.
Underdog - A person or hand not mathematically favored to win a pot. For instance, if you flop four cards to your flush, you are not quite a 2:1 underdog to make your flush by the river (that is, you will make your flush about one in three times). See also "dog."
Value - As in "bet for value." This means that you would actually like your opponents to call your bet (as opposed to a bluff). Generally it's because you have the best hand. However, it can also be a draw that, given enough callers, has a positive expectation.
Variance - A measure of the up and down swings your bankroll goes through. Variance is not necessarily a measure of how well you play. However, the higher your variance, the wider swings you'll see in your bankroll.

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Poker Terms and Glossary - Online Poker Dictionary S

Scare Card - A card that may well turn the best hand into trash. If you have T -8 and the flop comes Q-J-9 , you almost assuredly have the best hand. However, a turn card of T would be very scary because it would almost guarantee that you are now beaten.
Second Pair - A pair with the second highest card on the flop. If you have A -T, and the flop comes K-T-6 , you have flopped second pair. See "top pair."
Sell - As in "sell a hand." In a spread-limit game, this means betting less than the maximum when you have a very strong hand, hoping players will call whereas they would not have called a maximum bet.
Semi-Bluff - A powerful concept first discussed by David Sklansky. It is a bet or raise that you hope will not be called, but you have some outs if it is. A semi-bluff may be correct when betting for value is not correct, a pure bluff is not correct, but the combination of the two may be a positive expectation play. Example: you have K-Q, and the flop is T-5 -J. If you bet now, it's a semi-bluff. You probably don't have the best hand, and you'd like to see your opponents fold immediately. Nevertheless, if you do get callers, you could still improve to the best hand.
Set - Three of a kind when you have two of the rank in your hand, and there is one on the board.
Short Stack - A number of chips that is not very many compared to the other players at the table. If you have $10 in front of you, and everybody else at the table has over $100, you are playing on a short stack.
Showdown - The point at which all players remaining in the hand turn their cards over and determine who has the best hand - i.e. after the fourth round of betting is completed. Of course, if a final bet or raise is not called, there is no showdown.
Side Pot - A pot created in which a player has no interest because he has run out of chips. Example: Al bets $6, Beth calls the $6, and Carl calls, but he has only $2 left. An $8 side pot is created that either Al or Beth can win, but not Carl. Carl, however, can still win all the money in the original or "center" pot.
Slow Play - To play a strong hand weakly so more players will stay in the pot.
Small Blind - The smaller of two blind bets typically used in a hold'em game. Normally, the small blind is one-third to two-thirds of a first round bet. See also "big blind" and "blind."
Smooth Call - To call. Smooth call often implies slow playing a strong hand. Example: "I flopped the nut flush but just smooth called when the guy in front of me bet - I didn't want to scare anybody out."
Split Pot - A pot that is shared by two or more players because they have equivalent hands.
Split Two Pair - A two pair hand in which one of each of your cards' ranks appears on the board as well. Example: you have T9, the flop is T-9-5, you have a split two pair. This is in comparison to two pair where there is a pair on the board. Example: you have T9, the flop is 9-5-5.
Spread-limit - A betting structure in which a player may bet any amount in a range on every betting round. A typical spread-limit structure is $2-$6, where a player may bet as little as $2 or as much as $6 on every betting round.
Straddle - An optional extra blind bet, typically made by the player one to the left of the big blind, equal to twice the big blind. This is effectively a raise, and forces any player who wants to play to pay two bets. Furthermore, the straddler acts last before the flop, and may "re-raise."
String Bet - A bet (more typically a raise) in which a player doesn't get all the chips required for the raise into the pot in one motion. Unless he verbally declared the raise, he can be forced to withdraw it and just call. This prevents the unethical play of putting out enough chips to call, seeing what effect that had, and then possibly raising.
Structured - Used to apply to a certain betting structure in poker games. The typical definition of a structured hold'em game is a fixed amount for bets and raises before the flop and on the flop, and then twice that amount on the turn and river. Example: a $2-$4 structured hold'em game: bets and raises of $2 before the flop and on the flop; $4 bets and raises on the turn and river.
Suited - A hold'em starting hand in which the two cards are the same suit. Example: "I had to play J-3 - it was suited."

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Poker Terms and Glossary - Online Poker Dictionary P-R

Pay Off - To call a bet when the bettor is representing a hand that you can't beat, but the pot is sufficiently large to justify a call anyway. Example: "He played it exactly like he made the flush, but I had top set so I paid him off."
Play the Board - To show down a hand in hold'em when your cards don't make a hand any better than is shown on the board. For instance, if you have 22, and the board is 4-4-9-9-A (no flush possible), then you must "play the board" : the best possible hand you can make doesn't use any of your cards. Note that if you play the board, the best you can do is split the pot with all remaining players.
Pocket - Your unique cards that only you can see. For instance, "He had pocket sixes" (a pair of sixes), or "I had ace-king in the pocket."
Pocket Pair - A hold'em starting hand with two cards of the same rank, making a pair. Example: "I had big pocket pairs seven times in the first hour. What else can you ask for?"
Post - To put in a blind bet, generally required when you first sit down in a cardroom game. You may also be required to post a blind if you change seats at the table in a way that moves you away from the blinds. Example: a player leaves one seat at a table and takes another in such a way that he moves farther from the blinds. He is required to post an extra blind to receive a hand. See also "extra blind."
Pot-Limit - A version of poker in which a player may bet up to the amount of money in the pot whenever it is his turn to act. Like no-limit, this is a very different game from limit poker.
Pot Odds - The amount of money in the pot compared to the amount you must put in the pot to continue playing. For example, suppose there is $60 in the pot. Somebody bets $6, so the pot now contains $66. It costs you $6 to call, so your pot odds are 11:1. If your chance of having the best hand is at least 1 out of 12, you should call. Pot odds also apply to draws. For instance, suppose you have a draw to the nut flush with one card left to come. In this case, you are about a 4:1 underdog to make your flush. If it costs you $8 to call the bet, then there must be about $32 in the pot (including the most recent bet) to make your call correct.
Price - The pot odds you are getting for a draw or call. Example: "The pot was laying me a high enough price, so I stayed in with my gutshot straight draw."
Protect - (1) To keep your hand or a chip on your cards. This prevents them from being fouled by a discarded hand, or accidentally mucked by the dealer. (2) To invest more money in a pot so blind money that you've already put in isn't "wasted." Example: "He'll always protect his blinds, no matter how bad his cards are."
Quads - Four of a kind.
Ragged - A flop (or board) that doesn't appear to help anybody very much. A flop that came down J -6-2 would look ragged.
Rainbow - A flop that contains three different suits, thus no flush can be made on the turn. Can also mean a complete five card board that has no more than two of any suit, thus no flush is possible.
Raise - To increase the amount of the current bet.
Rake - An amount of money taken out of every pot by the dealer. This is the cardroom's income.
Rank - The numerical value of a card (as opposed to its suit). Example: "jack," "seven."
Represent - To play as if you hold a certain hand. For instance, if you raised before the flop, and then raised again when the flop came ace high, you would be representing at least an ace with a good kicker.
Ring Game - A regular poker game as opposed to a tournament. Also referred to as a "live" game since actual money is in play instead of tournament chips.
River - The fifth and final community card, put out face up, by itself. Also known as "fifth street." Metaphors involving the river are some of poker's most treasured cliches, e.g., "He drowned in the river."
Rock - A player who plays very tight, not very creatively. He raises only with the best hands. A real rock is fairly predictable: if he raises you on the end, you can throw away just about anything but the nuts.
Runner - Typically said "runner-runner" to describe a hand that was made only by catching the correct cards on both the turn and the river. Example:"He made a runner-runner flush to beat my trips." See also "backdoor."

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Poker Terms and Glossary - Online Poker Dictionary J-O

Jackpot - A special bonus paid to the loser of a hand if he gets a very good hand beaten. In hold'em, the "loser" must typically get aces full or better beaten. In some of the large southern California card clubs, jackpots have gotten over $50,000. Of course, the jackpot is funded with money removed from the game as part of the rake.
Kicker - An unpaired card used to determine the better of two near-equivalent hands. For instance, suppose you have AK and your opponent has AQ. If the flop has an ace in it, you both have a pair of aces, but you have a king kicker. Kickers can be vitally important in hold'em.
Live Blind - A forced bet put in by one or more players before any cards are dealt. The "live" means those players still have the option of raising when the action gets back around to them.
Maniac - A player who does a lot of hyper-aggressive raising, betting, and bluffing. A true maniac is not a good player, but is simply doing a lot of gambling. However, a player who occasionally acts like a maniac and confuses his opponents is quite dangerous.
Muck - The pile of folded and burned cards in front of the dealer. Example: "His hand hit the muck so the dealer ruled it folded even though the guy wanted to get his cards back." Also used as a verb. Example: "He didn't have any outs so he mucked his hand."
No-Limit - A version of poker in which a player may bet any amount of chips (up to the number in front of him) whenever it is his turn to act. It is a very different game from limit poker.  The best treatise on no-limit poker is in Doyle Brunson's Super/System.
Nuts - The best possible hand given the board. If the board is K-J -T-4 -2, then A -X is the nuts. You will occasionally hear the term applied to the best possible hand of a certain category, even though it isn't the overall nuts. For the above example, somebody with A-Q might say they had the "nut straight."
Offsuit - A hold'em starting hand with two cards of different suits.
One-Gap - A hold'em starting hand with two cards two apart in rank. Examples: J9s, 64.
Open-Ended Straight Draw - Seeking one of two card values to make a straight. For instance, a player holding 9-8 with a board of 2-7-6 can make a straight with either a ten (6-7-8-9-T) or with a five (5-6-7-8-9). This is also known as an up-and-down straight draw.
Out - A card that will make your hand win. Normally heard in the plural. Example: "Any spade will make my flush, so I have nine outs."
Outrun - To beat. Example: "Susie outran my set when her flush card hit on the river."
Overcall - To call a bet after one or more others players have already called.
Overcard - A card higher than any card on the board. For instance, if you have AQ and the flop comes J-7-3, you don't have a pair, but you have two overcards.
Overpair - A pocket pair higher than any card on the flop. If you have QQ and the flop comes J-8-3, you have an overpair.

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Poker Terms and Glossary - Online Poker Dictionary E-I

Equity - Your "rightful" share of a pot. If the pot contains $80, and you have a 50% chance of winning it, you have $40 equity in the pot. This term is somewhat fanciful since you will either win $80 or $0, but it gives you an idea of how much you can "expect" to win.
Expectation - (1) The amount you expect to gain on average if you make a certain play. For instance, suppose you put $10 into a $50 pot to draw at a hand that you will make 25% of the time, and it will win every time you make it. Three out of four times, you do not make your draw, and lose $10 each time for a total of $30. The fourth time, you will make your draw, winning $50. Your total gain over those four average hands is $50-$30 = $20, an average of $5 per hand. Thus calling the $10 has a positive expectation of $5. (2) The amount you expect to make at the poker table in a specific time period. Suppose in 100 hours of play, you win $527. Then your expectation is $5.27/hr. Of course, you won't make that exact amount each hour (and some hours you will lose), but it's one measure of your anticipated earnings.
Extra Blind - A blind put in by a player just entering the game, returning to the game, or otherwise changing his position at the table. See also "blind" and "post."
Family Pot - A pot in which all (or almost all) of the players call before the flop.
Fast - As in "play fast." To play a hand aggressively, betting and raising as much as possible. Example: "When you flop a set but there's a flush draw possible, you have to play it fast."
Favorite - A poker hand which is the statistical favorite to win.
Flop - The first three community cards, put out face up, altogether.
Fold - To forfeit any chance of winning the current pot in poker. To lay down your hand or throw your hand in instead of calling or raising a bet.
Foul - A hand that may not be played for one reason or another. A player with a foul hand may not make any claim on any portion of the pot. Example: "He ended up with three cards after the flop, so the dealer declared his hand foul."
Free Card - A turn or river card on which you don't have to call a bet because of play earlier in the hand (or because of your reputation with your opponents). For instance, if you are on the button and raise when you flop a flush draw, your opponents may check to you on the turn. If you make your flush on the turn, you can bet. If you don't get it on the turn, you can check as well, seeing the river card for "free."
Free Roll - One player has a shot at winning an entire pot when he is currently tied with another player. For instance, suppose you have A-Q and your opponent has A-Q. The flop is Q -5-T . You are tied with your opponent right now, but are free rolling, because you can win the whole pot and your opponent can't. If no club comes, you split the pot with him; if it does come, you win the whole thing.
Gutshot Straight - A straight filled "inside." If you have 9-8 , the flop comes 7-5 -2, and the turn is the 6 , you've made your gutshot straight.
Heads Up - A pot that is being contested by only two players. Example:"It was heads up by the turn."
Hit - As in "the flop hit me," meaning the flop contains cards that help your hand. If you have AK, and the flop comes K-7-2, it hit you.
Hole Cards - Cards dealt face-down to a player - most commonly used when describing the first two player cards in Hold'em and the first four player cards in Omaha.
House - The establishment running the game. Example: "The $2 you put on the button goes to the house."
Implied Odds - Pot odds that do not exist at the moment, but may be included in your calculations because of bets you expect to win if you hit your hand. For instance, you might call with a flush draw on the turn even though the pot isn't offering you quite 4:1 odds (your chance of making the flush) because you're sure you can win a bet from your opponent on the river if you make your flush.
Inside Straight Draw - Seeking one specific card value to make a straight. For instance, a player holding 9-5 with a board of 2-7-6 can make a straight with any eight. This is also known as a gutshot straight draw.